Richard Ford’s visit to Gibraltar, 1845

We continue with Ford’s impressions of Gibraltar:

The principal square is the “Commercial.” Here are situated the best hotels and the “Public Exchange,” a mean building, decorated with a bust of Gen. Don. Here are a library and news-papers, and a sort of club, to which travellers, especially mercantile, are readily admitted. In this square, during the day, sales by auction take place; the whole scene in the open air, combined with the variety of costume, is truly peculiar. The ordinary out of doors dress of the females of the lower classes is a red cloak and hood, edged with black velvet.

Gibraltar is a free port in the full extent of the term. There are no custom-houses, no odious searchings of luggage; everything is alike free to be imported or exported. Accordingly, the barren Rock, which in itself produces nothing, and consumes everything, is admirably supplied. This ready-money market infuses life into the Spanish vicinity, which exists by furnishing vegetables and other articles of consumption: the beef, which is not a thing of Spain, comes from Barbary. Gibraltar is very dear, especially house-rent, wages, and labour of all kinds. It is a dull place of residence to those who are neither merchants nor military. The climate is peculiarly fatal to children during early dentition; otherwise it is healthy. It is, however, extremely disagreeable during the prevalence of easterly winds, when a misty vapour hangs over the summit of the Rock, and the nerves of man and beast are affected.

Image: Commercial Square and Main Guard House. 1846. Captain J. M. Carter. Colour print.