Richard Ford’s visit to Gibraltar, 1845

"The traveller who lands by the steamer will be tormented by cads and touters, who clamorously canvass him to put up at their respective inns. They are second-rate and dear, e.g. “Griffith’s Hotel,” “Mrs. Crosby’s Club-House,” “Dumoulin’s French Hotel.” At “Griffith’s” is one Messias, a Jew (called Rafael in Spain), who is a capital guide both here and throughout Andalucía. The other posadas are mere punch and pot-houses, nor is the cookery or company first-rate: “Differtum nautis, cauponibus atque malignis [crowded with boatmen and nasty];” but the hospitality of the Rock is unbounded, and, perhaps, the endless dinnering is the greatest change from the hungry and thirsty Spain. As there are generally five regiments in garrison, the messes are on a grand scale; more roast beef is eaten and sherry drunk than in the Cuatro Reinos put together: but there is death in the pot, and the faces of the “yours and ours” glow redder than their jackets; a tendency to fever and inflammation is induced by carrying the domestics and gastronomics of cool damp England to this arid and torrid “Rock.” This garrison is one of the strictest in the world, since the fortress never can be taken except by treachery or surprise: everything is on alert; the gates are shut at sunset and not opened until sunrise, and after midnight civilians are obliged to carry a lantern. These rules do not apply to officers. No foreigner can reside on the Rock without some consul or householder becoming his surety and responsible for his conduct. Permits are granted by the police magistrate for ten, fifteen, or twenty days. Military officers have the privilege of introducing a stranger for thirty days, which with characteristic gallantry is generally exercised in favour of the Spanish fair sex. Those who wish to draw or to ramble unmolested over the Rock should obtain a card from the town-major, which operates as a passport. Spanish money is current at Gibraltar, but some changes have been made."

Image: Maltese milkman at Gibraltar. Illustrated London News. 22nd April, 1876.